On my way home from Orleans on Cape Cod, I stopped in our Ellisville cottage to use the toilet and say hi-goodbye to my nephew Christopher, who is living in the cottage these days, before I started the longer drive back to Amherst. I did the cottage stuff, left about 10:00 am, was about to turn onto Route 3A from Ellisville Road, when I saw a Tag Sale sign that listed “Rugs from Afghanistan”.
Now, if you’ve been to Ellisville, you may recall that Ellisville is a rural village and has no store, post office, gas station, or any other enterprise. Ellisville Road is not very long, doesn’t have a lot of houses, no traffic, and is definitely not the first, or even 200th, place you’d think of when you think of rugs from Afghanistan.
So, I just had to turn around and find this Tag Sale. It was in a house that had been converted from a barn originally built by Ernest Ellis, just down the road from the cottage. I dashed into the house, saw a beautiful large Afghan rug hanging from a stair railing near the entry-way, and fell in love. I told the owner David that I had been with the Peace Corps in Afghanistan in the late 1960s and loved Afghanistan and Afghans, and he told me that he had been with the Army as a soldier in Afghanistan in 2004 and 2010 and loved Afghanistan and Afghans. He brought me upstairs to see the 15 or so rugs he had spread out on the floor. I took off my shoes and started looking.
While I was absorbed in the rugs and by the rugs, he took a shawl hanging on a peg on the wall and said “I want you to have this.” The shawl, black – brown in some lights – with embroidery, had been made by a woman who worked in a women’s cooperative that his team had helped get started near the base in Bagram. The Army had set up a bazaar on the base where craftspeople could come and sell their stuff to Americans and other harajees. The bazaar was managed by Afghan entrepreneurs, who among other things decided who could sell stuff there and who couldn’t. He said that controlling the bazaar was a little bit like controlling garbage collection in northern New Jersey (not everyone could get into the action).
David had traveled all over Afghanistan, doing what, I didn’t ask, and bought the rugs in Ghazni, Mazar, Charikar, Chagcharan, Herat, etc. When I showed interest in the most spectacular one, he withdrew it from sale, saying, “My wife will kill me, but I just can’t let this one go.”
So I picked out two rugs, a prayer rug and a larger one, but couldn’t pay for them – cash and checks only. I proposed several solutions, one of which was going back down the road to ask Christopher if he could float me a loan. He had been expecting a guest, and I wasn’t sure he’d be home, but he was. He had just said goodbye to me 30-45 minutes before and naturally assumed that I was already on the Mass Pike, so seeing me at the door was a bit of a surprise. He said afterward that he knew that nothing awful had happened because I was wearing a black shawl that I didn’t have on when I left – ?.
He had a checkbook and was willing to write a check, so the three of us, including the visiting Sarah, went back to the Tag Sale house, where I announced that I had found a man with a checkbook and was ready to do business. David said that, by rights, we should have tea and bargain. The tea wasn’t forthcoming, and the bargaining went like this: I said nothing. David said, “OK, I’ll drop the price by $130.” I said, “I’ll take it.” Christopher wrote the check. Sarah smiled.
Later after saying our goodbyes to David and Audrey when Christopher, Sarah, and I were parting, Christopher, who is in his
early40s, said, “You know, as far as I know, I’ve never met a soldier.”
I’m sending David Once in Afghanistan on DVD, and he’s promised to tell me what he thinks of it.
Kristina Engstrom